Expansive landscapes of Piva plateau and villages with only few people residing are a special attraction of this region. A true mountain landscape where the highest peak of Durmitor, Bobotov kuk, with its 2523 meters above sea level, is seen above the Škrčka Lakes and is then replaced with the shade of dense forest of the Sušica canyon.
The guesthouse at Nedajno is a lovely respite. The daughters were away for exams, so a neighbour was translating for us. The have good rooms, WiFi and cheap food (€5 for a meal, €3 for soup, free salad). Camping is no longer free €5 I think, so getting a double room for €12pp was a good deal including hot showers and breakfast (fried donuts with local honey and jam).
Skrcka has two lakes - a large one and a small one. The small one has a better campsite but there is cow dung everywhere, including in the lake where the ranger told us to get water from (so have a purification method). The larger lake you can also get water, but it's a much longer walk from the camp. You can also camp in front of the rangers hut, or pay to stay in the hut. There is no drop toilet. You have to pay fee to camp and for entry into Durmitor.
From Skrcka to Crno and Zabljak, there are 3 ways. 1st is to go past Bobotov. 2nd - The GPX trail takes you directly over Planinica (even though the peak is marked Bobotov, I think it is Planinica). 3rd - if you follow the red and white markers, it takes you to a water source at Marica (this is the only source until the cafe at Crno), then around a mountain to get to Planinica. I would not recommend the 3rd - you walk up then down then up, so it is probably better to go directly over Planinica instead. If you want running water, you can always go to Marica then turn back.
Crno is a beautiful lake. I did not see any campsites here. It is a short walk to Zabljak and civilisation.
The marked way is shorter than the GPS track of Via Dinarica. From Nedajno, it is marked (path 192) via Lijepi Pod. It is more direct and avoids the asphalt road. Then I took a gravel road that goes through Javorak and Badžovine. Via the marked path 195, it goes back to Via Dinarica at Babići and avoid asphalt road.
The GPX file + hight profile indicates that you climb Bobotov Kuk directly from Skrcko Jezero. This is not true. The GPX file follows the direct route over Planinica (2330m). Bobotob Kuk is another much longer (marked) option from there to be approached more from the south
Wei Mak
Jean-Marc Souchon
Rutger Buschow